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TT 

3<?7 

D 


H v 


wire Lamp Shade Frames 


and 


How To Make Them 

AWDra^oo .If'! 






































































Silk Covered Shades 








WIRE LAMP SHADE FRAMES 

and 

HOW TO MAKE THEM 


A. W. DRAGOO, 

M 

Assistant in Manual Training 
and 

Instructor in Mechanical Drawing, 

Illinois State Normal University, 
Normal, Ill. 



The Bruce Publishing Company, 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin 




V 


Copyright 1922 

The Bruce Publishing Company 


Printed in the United States 
of America 


* 1 c 

( 



©DI.A6745 39 


JUN10 72 



PREFACE 


The difficulty encountered by the average manual training student in 
making a wooden lamp shade, and the expense of buying suitable shades 
of any sort has led to a thorough study of the problem. After experi¬ 
menting with many different materials the wire frame covered with silk 
has met with the greatest success. The frames are not difficult to make, 
and the boys enjoy a change from the usual work with wood. 

Little has been written on wire frame design and construction, and it 
is hoped that this book may open up the possibilities of this form of design 
and give to shop teachers and others interested in the work, something 
practical and usable. 

Appreciation is here expressed to Chittenden and Eastman of Burling¬ 
ton, Iowa, for some of the designs and to Miss Lora M. Dexheimer and 
A. C. Newell of the Illinois State Normal University, for helpful sugges¬ 
tions in preparing the manuscript. 


A. W. DRAGOO. 


Illinois State Normal University, 
Normal, Illinois, February 2, 1922. 





TABLE.OF CONTENTS 


Page 

Introduction . 7 

Equipment. 9 

Materials. 10 

PART I 

Processes and Methods.1-17 

General Directions for Soldering. 13 

Joining Wires End to End. 14 

Joining Cross-Wires at Right Angles. 15 

Joining End-Wires to Cross-Wires. 15 

Joining the Ends of More Than Two Wires. 16 

Joining Curved or Arched Wires. 16 

Shaping the Wire. 16 

Making the Tin Sleeves and Clips. 16 

Hangers or Supports. 17 

PART II 

Design No. 1—Small Round Frame. 19 

Design No. 2—Hexagonal Frame. 21 

Design No. 3—Round Frame. 23 

Design No. 4—Circular Frame for Throw Shade. 25 

Design No. 5—Square Frame. 27 

Design No. 6—Twelve-sided Frame. 29 

Design No. 7—Large Hexagonal Frame. 31 

Design No. 8—Arched Rib Frame. 33 

Design No. 9—Arched Ring Frame. 35 

Design No. 10—Corner Paneled Frame. 37 

Design No. 11—Curved Panel Frame. 39 

Design No. 12—Extension Panel Frame. 41 




























Six 


Illustration 













INTRODUCTION 


Few problems in the manual training shop possess greater interest to 
boys than the making of an electric lamp. The problem affords many 
tool processes besides giving opportunity for work in many kinds of 
material. The chief difficulty which always confronts the student is in 
securing or making a suitable shade. Shades may be purchased, but they 
are so expensive that they are frequently beyond the reach of all but a 
few boys. Paper and cardboard shades lack durability, and the wooden 
shade is too difficult for the average grade school boy to undertake. 

The wire shade, made of materials so easily worked, seems to be the 
best solution of the problem. All processes necessary for complete success 
are easily mastered by the seventh or eighth grade boy, and the entire lamp 
problem thus affords satisfying interest to all who undertake it. 

In regard to the question of covering for these wire shade frames, the 
author has found that this presents little difficulty. Most mothers, or 
sisters, in the home will be found capable of doing a satisfactory piece of 
work. If this can not be done in the home, some relative or neighbor can 
usually be found who will undertake the work. The sewing department 
might be interested in putting on the coverings. 

Any problem which will link up the home, the school, and the boy, is 
a highly profitable and desirable one. Few problems possess this element 
as does the completed electric lamp. Since it is used in the home it is 
found practical, and parents take pride in pointing out the fact that it 
was made by their boy in the manual training shop. Every boy feels a 
just pride in worthy handwork and if given the opportunity and proper 
guidance will produce nothing else. 

The following plates will make clear how these frames may be made 
in any shop. A dozen common shapes are given with complete directions 
for their construction. The plates are graded, beginning with the most 
simple forms and becoming progressively more difficult. 

These frames will be found suitable for either table or floor lamps. 
After making a few of the simpler frames, the student will be able to 
alter the size of any of the frames to suit his particular needs. 

It is always desirable to hang or support these shades on a cluster 
stem where possible. The expense of the cluster stem is considerable and 
to simplify this matter the shades for small lamps are provided with a ring- 
support. This ring rests directly on the top of the bulb, and supports the 
shade. Shades have been made after each of these patterns, and found to 
hang satisfactorily. 


Seven 





Eight 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 
































































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Nine 


EQUIPMENT 

The equipment necessary for making wire shade frames is very simple 
and easily secured. Most shops are supplied with the necessary tools 
unless it be the soldering coppers, and these may be purchased for a few 
cents. 

In order that the wire be handled with ease and the work be accom¬ 
plished successfully, the following equipment should be at hand: 

1 pair Round nose pliers, 5". 

1 pair Wire cutting pliers, 6" or 7" (Kleins). 

1 pair Automobile pliers, adjustable. 

1 pair Tinners’ snips, 10" or 12". 

1 Hammer, light weight. 

1 Flat file, 8". 

1 Thin taper file, 6". 

l / 2 dozen sheets emery cloth or fine sandpaper (00). 

1 Small Bench vise, 3" jaws. . 

1 pair Soldering coppers, No. 1 G ( Ya lb. each). I 

1 Gas or charcoal furnace. 

1 pair Dividers, 8". 



Illustration 3 


The charcoal tinners’ furnace will perhaps be most easily secured by 
most schools. The boys will enjoy making one as shown in lllus. 2. Elec¬ 
tric soldering irons may be used, but they are expensive and if left con¬ 
nected too long will burn out. A gasoline blow-torch may also be used, 
if convenient, but owing to the danger of accident in filling, this is not 
recommended for young boys. The small gas furnace for manufactured 
gas is the most satisfactory if gas is to be had. Gas gives a good hot 
flame, and insures the clean copper, so necessary in this work. 

The wire-cutting pliers should be of good quality. The Kleins’ pattern, 
side-cutting pliers have been found very satisfactory. A pair of combina¬ 
tion or adjustable pliers will be found very helpful in making sleeves and 
tips for splicing. 

A word of explanation should be given here in regard to soldering 
coppers. Soldering coppers are sold by the pair. A No. 2 coppei weighs 
one pound. The number signifies the weight of a pair. The copper used 
for this work is No. V / 2 ; hence one copper weighs -pound. 











LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 


Ten 


MATERIALS 

Wire best suited for this work is bright tinned wire. This wire is 
usually difficult to procure except in large lots. The common galvanized 
wire is more easily secured and answers the purpose just as well if cleaned 
with sandpaper. In cleaning the wire it is best to cut off a length sufficient 
to make the shade, and sand the entire piece before cutting into short 
lengths. Hold one end of the wire in the vise and brighten the entire 
piece with fine sandpaper. The solder will be found to flow easily on the 
brightened wire. 

Some pieces of thin tin are necessary for making the sleeves and end 
clips. Tin from a bright can is satisfactory. 

A small quantity of fine wire, such as comes on spools, should be pro¬ 
vided to bind parts where necessary. Besides this fine wire several feet 
of ordinary broom wire is required for making the hangers. Wire from 
an old broom may easily be secured. 



Illustration 4 













HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Eleven 



Illustration 5 


The common tinners’ solder, known as half-and-half, will be found best 
for this purpose. Much of the ordinary wire solder is too soft and should 
not be used. 

A lump of sal ammoniac and a few cents' worth of powdered sal 
ammoniac are necessary in tinning the copper and keeping it clean. 

There are many brands of soldering salts and pastes which will be 
found very satisfactory. Hydrochloric acid and zinc is easily provided 
and may be made as directed hereafter. 











Wk&s?, 

■fWhi.' J 1 






- 

''''""' T: 


kflWjSSS'** 


■ 

' V .. , > 


Twelve 



















PART I 



PROCESSES AND METHODS 
General Directions for Soldering 

Soldering is the process of joining two pieces of metal by means of 
another metal of lower melting point. Solder is the common metal used 
for this purpose and is an alloy of tin and lead. The soldering copper 
is used to apply the heat which causes the metals to be brought to the 
fusing point. 

In soldering, the surfaces to be united must be made perfectly clean and 
free from oxide. This is commonly done by scraping, sanding, or filing 
these surfaces; and in order that the formation of any oxide may be 
prevented during the process, acid, borax, sal ammoniac or resin is used. 
1 he common acid used by most tinners is made in the following manner: 


Illustration 6 

To a quantity of hydrochloric acid add as much zinc as the acid will 
take. When pieces of zinc are dropped into the acid, bubbles will be seen 
to rise. Zinc should be added until no more bubbles are seen. Care should 
be taken to keep the acid clean and it is best to keep it sealed when not in 
use. A little care all around in this matter of cleanliness will help solve 
many of the problems of soldering. 

Besides having clean acid and clean parts, the soldering copper must 
be kept clean and well tinned. A carbon deposit will collect on the copper 
from the gas or charcoal heat. This must be removed. At the beginning, 
tin the copper in the following manner: 


Thirteen 







Fourteen 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 


Secure a lump of sal ammoniac. Heat the copper hot enough to melt the 
solder. Rub the copper over the lump of sal ammoniac until the entire point 
shows a bright copper color. Melt a few drops of solder and rub this 
over the sal ammoniac with the hot copper. The solder should spread out 
over the copper and leave the point a bright silver color. If the copper 
is now touched to the solder, small globules of the metal should cling to the 
point ready to be applied to the pieces of metal. 

After the copper is properly tinned, it will remain so if not allowed to 
get too hot. Soldering coppers should never be allowed to become red hot. 
If this happens the copper is useless until retinned. 

In order that the copper may be kept in a perfectly clean and bright 
condition, it is necessary to have a dipping solution. This may be made 
by dissolving a few ounces of powdered sal ammoniac in a quart of water. 
When the copper is taken from the heat, the point should be dipped quickly 
into this solution. This will insure a bright clean copper at all times. 

It is frequently necessary to tin parts of metal or wire before soldering. 
This may be done by using the acid flux on the points to be tinned and 
running a little solder on the parts before bringing them together. If 
this is done when wires are to be joined, the joint will be much stronger 
and much more easily made. 

It must be remembered that the strength of a soldered joint depends 
upon the metals fusing together into one homogeneous mass. This can not 
be accomplished unless both metals are brought to the fusing point. It is 
necessary, therefore, to apply the heat long enough to bring the parts to 
the fusing point of the metals. 



Fig. 1 



Fig. 2 

There is no reason why any boy cannot be entirely successful with his 
soldering if he is taught absolute cleanliness from the start. Too much 
emphasis on this point is not possible, and a little experience will soon teach 
that few failures result from any other cause. 

Joining Wires End to End 

There are two common methods of joining wires in this manner. The 
tin sleeve may be used as shown in Fig. 1, or the wires may be filed and 
made to overlap as shown in Fig. 2. The tin sleeve is to be preferred and 
should be applied in the following manner. 























HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Fifteen 


The tin sleeve should be made by cutting a piece of tin somewhat 
narrower than the circumference of the wire. The sleeve, when bent 
around the joined ends of the wire, should lack just a little of meeting. 
This is to permit the solder to flow easily around the entire joint and secure 
greater strength. This sleeve should be about one inch long. 

In making the overlap joint, shown in Fig. 2, the wires should be filed 
for about 2 inches each. The solder is applied directly to the joint. 


Joining Cross-Wires at Right Angles 

Fig. 3 shows a method of joining cross-wires by the use of fine wire to 
strengthen the joint. In this case the wires are simply crossed and a few 
turns of fine wire are used to hold them in place. The solder is applied 
over the entire lap. Care must be taken not to get too much wire wound 
around the joint or it will make the joint look too big when covered with 
solder. 



Fig. 3 

Another method of joining cross wires is shown in Fig. 4. This is 
known as a cross-clip and is made as shown. The wires may be flattened 
slightly at the point of contact. Proper soldering will insure a strong joint 
where the cross-clip sleeve is used. 

The wires may also be joined directly with the solder. 

Joining End-Wires to Cross-Wires 

Fig. 5 shows clearly the method of fastening end-wires to cross-wires. 
The use of this end sleeve insures a smooth strong joint. The end sleeve 



Fig. 6 


















































Sixteen 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 


is easily made by using the pliers and bending the tin over the wire as 
shown. 

Joining the Ends of More Than Two Wires 

It is often desirable to join more than two wires together at the same 
place. Fig. 6 represents a method of doing this by using a small tin clip. 
If the points of contact are flattened slightly with a file, the clip is more 
easily applied and rolling of the wires, one upon the other is prevented. 
Joining Curved or Arched Wires 

Curved or arched wires are best joined by using a tin clip soldered in 
place as shown in Fig. 7. 



Fig. 7 


Shaping the Wire 

In making a true ring of wire or in shaping long curves, it is essential 
that the bends be as smooth as possible. Short kinks must be avoided. A 
round block of hard wood, three or four inches in diameter, is a great aid 
in shaping different forms. The wire as it comes from the roll will not be 
straight but may be made so by pounding slightly on a flat surface. Care 
should be taken not to mar the wire with a hammer. Light blows will do 
no injury. 

Methods of shaping special forms will be mentioned in the design 
descriptions. 

It is frequently necessary to bend the wire at a sharp angle. Place the 
wire in the vise and bend by tapping lightly with a hammer or use the 
pliers and grip tightly while making the bend. A rather short smooth bend 
will be found best in most cases. This is especially true when radiating 
ribs are to be joined at the angle. 

Making the Tin Sleeves and Clips 

In making the tin sleeves and clips difficulty is sometimes encountered 
in bending the tin around the wire. This difficulty may be overcome in the 
following manner: 

Place in the vise a piece of wire of the size for which the sleeve or 
clip is intended. Let the wire project about one inch beyond the jaws. 
Cut a blank piece of tin somewhat narrower than the circumference of the 
wire, and as long as is required. Place the tin in the jaws of the pliers, 
having the tin at right angles to the face of the jaws. Force the tin against 
the projecting wire in the vise and close the pliers. The sleeve will shape 
itself easily. To prevent spiral results see that the wire rests in the center 
of the tin before closing the pliers. Observe Illus. 7. 













HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Seventeen 



Illustration 7 


Hangers or Supports 

Small shades are supported on a small ring which rests directly on the 
light bulb. In making these supports, it is not always necessary to use the 
tin clips. Instead, the wire may be bent around the top ring or rim of the 
shade, and soldered in place. The small ribs may also be bent around the 
supporting ring and soldered in place. Large wire should never he bent 
and fastened in this manner. 

Large shades require different methods of support. Hanging a large 
shade on a single bulb should not be attempted. The cluster stem, Fig. 9, 
is a necessity here, and all of the designs shown for large lamps are pro¬ 
vided with a heavy tin or other metal support. The method of making 
these supports is made plain by the drawings and descriptions accom¬ 
panying each design. 


Fig. 9 














PELOIGN NO /. 


Eighteen 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 





Note. Black aort/anj indicate folder 





























































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Nineteen 


PART II 
DESIGN No. 1 

In making the small round shade shown on the opposite page it is best 
to begin by making the rings. Shape the rings over a piece of round wood 
and see that the ends of the wire meet nicely. Join by using a sleeve. 

Next, prepare the four ribs. See that all are cut exactly the same 
length. Make eight end clips, and fit them on the ribs. Have all of the 
clips, and sleeves ready and in place before beginning to solder. Solder the 
clips to the ends of the wire ribs. Be careful to let the copper remain on 
the clip long enough to insure the solder’s running around the wire under 
the tin. Run a little solder on the end of the wire. See that the clips are 
parallel and that both face the same way. 

After soldering the rings, the ribs should be fastened to them by cutting 
the end-clips to the proper length and bending them over with the pliers. 
If a short piece of wire is used to bend these clips over before placing on 
the rings, the process of assembling will be found more easy. The clips 
should be bent around the rings sufficiently to hold the entire frame 
together before soldering. Care at this point is required to see that the 
frame is straight. Adjust the four ribs so that they will stand at equal 
distances apart. All clips should face in. Apply the solder from the 
inside. Use a fine file to dress all rough joints after soldering. 

After the main frame is set up make the ribs and ring for the support. 
A small tin sleeve should he used on this supporting ring. The ribs may 
he bent around and soldered as shown. 

Main frame. No. 14 wire. 

Broom wire support, No. 20 wire. 

Shade suitable for small boudoir or desk lamp. 




Twenty 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 



























































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Tiventy-one 


DESIGN No. 2 

This frame is made similar to No. 1, except in the method of fastening 
the parts. In design No. 1, we used the tin clips. In this one, we shall 
use the direct method of applying the solder without the use of the sleeves 
or clips except for the main ring. 

In laying out the hexagons for the top and bottom rings, it is well to 
lay out the circles on a large board and draw in the hexagons by using 
the radius. Place nails at the angles, around which the wire may be bent. 

Prepare the top and bottom rings and join with sleeves. Cut the ribs to 
the proper length and file the ends flat. Tin the ends of all ribs, also the 
angles where they are to be joined. (This is important.) 

After tinning, place the end of the rib directly against the ring and 
apply the solder. The finished joint should be similar to Fig. 8. 



ki 


Fig. 8 

This direct method of applying the solder without the use of wire or 
tin is very effective if care is taken in turning the parts. This process will 
be used in many places in making larger shades and should be mastered at 
the start. 

The method of supporting this shade is the same as No. 1. 

Main frame, No. 14 wire. 

Supporting ring and ribs, No. 20 wire. 

Shade suitable for dressing-table lamp. 















£ ON NQ/922 


Twenty-two 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 
































































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Twenty-three 


DESIGN No. 3 

This is a round shade somewhat larger than those in the preceding 
designs and is intended for use on table lamps. 

Make up the four rings, joining each with a tin sleeve. Make careful 
measurements and cut and bend the ribs as shown. 

All rings are to go outside of the rib and may be soldered with or 
without the use of fastenings. Rings A and B should be soldered in place 
first. The remaining rings are soldered directly to the ends of the main 
ribs. 

This shade may be hung in the same manner as designs 1 and 2. If a 
cluster stem is to be used, a metal hanger or support should be provided. 
See design No. 6. 

Main frame, wire No. 12. 

Support, wire No. 16. 

Shade suitable for medium sized table-lamp. 





t? ON NOIOja 


Tiventy-four 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 













































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Twenty-five 


DESIGN No. 4 

The frame here shown is designed to be used with a throw shade or 
cover; that is, no material is fastened to the frame. The ease with which 
this frame is made and the simplicity of the covering makes it one of the 
most practicable for manual training shops. The method of construction 
is very simple. Make up the rings and ribs and join by using tin clips 
and sleeves. 

The method of hanging this shade is different from that used in pre¬ 
ceding designs. Large shades must be supported on the lamp base by 
means of a cluster stem. These stems may be had in a variety of forms 
but each has a bolt and nut at the top for holding the shade. Some 
provision, therefore, must be made in the frame for fastening it to the 
cluster stem. Such provision is made in this frame by providing the 
support as shown at A. 

Suggested Covering 

A suitable covering may be made for this shade in the following 
manner: 

Procure one square yard of suitable material, such as silk. If the silk 
is thin a lining should be provided. Four yards of four-inch fringe for 
the edges and four tassels for the corners are all that is needed. 

This material is made up into a square cover and is simply thrown 
over the frame. If suitable colors are chosen, very pleasing results may 
be obtained with this shade. 

All wires No. 12. 

Shade suitable for piano or reading lamp. 






































































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Twenty-seven 


DESIGN No. 5 

This frame is of rather simple construction and is suitable for table 
lamps without cluster stems. If the cluster stem is to be used, a metal 
support similar to that shown in design 4 should be provided. 

Begin by making up the square frames B, C, D and E. To find the 
true length of the main ribs, lay out a square on the table top as shown. 
Solder all square frames on the outside. See that the solder runs well 
around the wire. 

The supporting ring is made as in designs 1 and 2. 

All wire No. 12. 

This shade is suitable for a rather low table lamp. For tall stems the 
size should be increased to 16 or 18 inches. 





DttIGN /VO - 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 



Twenty-eight 









































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Twenty-nine 


DESIGN No. 6 

This is a twelve-sided or paneled shade for use on large floor lamps. 
Its size and weight demand great care in soldering all joints. 

To lay out the twelve-sided rings, a large flat table top or board should 
be provided. Great care should be taken in laying out the forms to get 
the sides exactly the same length. Draw a large circle 24" in diameter 
and by using a large 30 x60 triangle, lay off the twelve sides. Drive 
nails at all angles and carefully bend the wire to the proper form. Always 
use the pliers in bending the wire. Do not try to bend the wire by forcing 
it around the nail. 

Lay out the top ring C on the same board. By drawing radii from the 
nails the faces of the upper ring are easily found. Join all rings with a 
tin sleeve. Prepare the ribs as shown and solder by use of end clips, to 
the top ring first. The angle at which these ribs should stand with 
reference to the top ring is easily observed by noting that the bend at the 
bottom of the rib should be at right angles to the plane of the ring. 

Solder ring D in place, all ribs to be placed on the inside. Ring E is 
soldered directly to the bottom ends of the ribs. End-clips may be used 
if desired. 

The support for this frame is made by soldering the supporting ribs 
to a common 7/16" iron washer as shown at A, design No. 4. File the 
iron washer bright and tin with a little solder before attempting to solder 
the ribs to it. The ends of the supporting ribs may be soldered directly 
to the top ring C. 

All wire size No. 12. 

Shade suitable for piano or reading lamp. 





N9IC\3CT 


T hirty 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Thirty-one 


DESIGN No. 7 

In this design we have a 24" hexagonal shade suitable for a small floor 
lamp. Lay out the hexagonal main frame rings in the regular manner, 
and cut and bend all ribs to proper length and shape. 

Put on the curved wire at the bottom by soldering a long straight piece 
of wire directly to the bottom end of a rib. Give the wire the proper curve 
and solder it to the next rib. Continue until all ribs are soldered. Do not 
attempt to shape these curved wires and solder to the frame afterwards. 
The method described here will be found much easier. The curved wire 
around the top is shaped and fastened in the same manner as the bottom. 

All wire No. 12. 

If this design is desired for a table lamp the diameter should be 14 or 
16 inches. 




D^S/CN NO 8. 


Thirty-two 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 











































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Thirty-three 


DESIGN No. 8 

In all preceding designs only the simple arched or straight wires have 
been used. In this design we have curved main-ribs, which are somewhat 
more difficult to shape. Observe the lay-out of the main rib as shown in 
the small drawing. To get the proper curve, the form should be laid out 
in full size, being careful to get the dimensions exactly as shown. 

Make all main rings and shape all ribs to the proper form before 
beginning to solder. If short pieces of wire are soldered to the two pairs 
of main rings to hold them the proper distance apart, the ribs may be 
more easily soldered in place. Use the plain soldered joint. 

Make the support for this frame as shown in design No. 4. 

All wire No. 12. 

Shade suitable for reading lamp. 












Thirty-four 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 
































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Thirty-five 


DESIGN No. 9 

This is a small circular frame having arched wires at the bottom. 

The top portion of the frame is made as described in design No. 3. 
To make the arched bottom wires, lay out two rings 16" in diameter. 
Using the round nose-pliers, bend these wires up at the proper places as 
shown in the drawing. If properly shaped, these rings should be about 
14" in diameter after bending. 

By referring to preceding designs, the student may select a support 
for this shade suited to his particular needs. 

All wires No. 12. 

Shade suitable for table lamp. 






0/ -ON N9! 


Thirty-six 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 







































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Thirty-seven 


DESIGN No. 10 

This is a very attractive shade when properly covered, and if the 
drawings are carefully observed, it should present no great difficulty in 
construction. 

All shapes and dimensions are made plain in the drawing. The shade 
may be hung by means of a plain ring resting directly on the top of the 
bulb. 

The arched wires at the top and bottom are fastened and shaped as in 
design No. 7. 

Main frame rings A and B, No. 12 wire. 

Ribs, top and bottom wire arches, No. 16 wire. 

Shade suitable for table lamp. 







Thirty-eight 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 


1 - 

£ 

On 

V. 














































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Thirty-nine 


DESIGN No. 11 

Success in making this design will depend upon accuracy in shaping 
the main ribs. All ribs should be carefully shaped and should be exactly 
alike. The small drawing shows a method of laying out the form over 
which all ribs are to be shaped. A large board or table top should be used 
in laying out these forms. Nails driven at the angles A, B, C will insure 
greater accuracy. 

All wires No. 12. 

Shade suitable for parlor lamp. 







V£OZON NO - AS 


Forty 


LAMP SHADE FRAMES: 


< 

<5 

■n. 

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V 

o 




Fin ch 












































































HOW TO MAKE THEM 


Forty-one 


DESIGN No. 12 

This design is very commonly seen in the furniture stores and is used 
on either floor or table lamps according to size. 

In making this frame nearly all the principal methods of fastening 
are used and have been fully described in the preceding pages. If this 
frame is built up by using the tin clips and sleeves as shown, it will be 
very rigid and will stand much hard usage. 

The shade must be hung by a metal support. 

All wires No. 12. 

If desired for table lamp, its diameter should be about 20". 












INDEX 


Arched rib frame, 33; ring frame, 35 

Boudoir or desk lamp shade, 19 
Bright tinned wire, 10 

Circular frame for throw shade, 25 
Cluster stem, 17 
Corner paneled frame, 37 
Cross-clip, 15 
Cross-clip sleeve, 15 

Cross-wires at right angles, joining, 

15 

Curved or arched wires, joining, 16 
Curved panel frame, 39 

Dipping solution, 14 
Dressing table lamp shade, 21 

End sleeve, 15 

End-wires to cross-wires, joining, 15 
Ends of more than two wires, joining, 

16 

Equipment, 9 
Extension panel frame, 41 

Gas furnace, 9 

Gasoline blow-torch, 9 

General directions for soldering, 13 

Hangers or supports, 17 
Hexagonal frame, 21 

Joining cross-wires at right angles, 
15; curved or arched wires, 16; 
ends of more than two wires, 16; 
end-wires to cross-wires, 15; wires 
end to end, 14 


Lamp shades, boudoir or desk lamp, 
19; dressing table, 21; low table, 
27; medium sized table, 23; parlor, 
39; piano or reading, 25, 29; read¬ 
ing, 33; small floor, 31; table, 35, 
37, 41 

Large hexagonal frame, 31 
Long curves, shaping, 16 
Low table lamp shade, 27 

Making tin sleeves and clips, 16 
Materials, 10 

Medium sized table-lamp shade, 23 

Overlap joint, 15 
Overlapping wires, 14 

Paneled shade, 29 

Parlor lamp shade, 39 

Piano or reading lamp shade, 25, 29 

Processes and methods, 13 

Reading lamp shade, 33 
Round frame, 23 

Shaping long curves, 16; wire, 16 
Small floor lamp shade, 31 
Small round frame, 19 

Soldering coppers, 9; general direc¬ 
tions, 13 

Square frame, 27 

Table lamp shade, 35, 37, 41 
Tinning copper, 11 
Tin sleeve, 14; and clips, 16 
Tinners' furnace, 8 
Twelve-sided frame, 29 

Wires, end to end, joining, 14; over¬ 
lapping, 14; shaping, 16 


F'ort-y-three 











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Problems in Woodwork j 

IN COMBINATION WITH OTHER MATERIALS f 

By Edward F. Worst, I 

Supervisor of Elementary Manual Training and 1 

Construction Work, Chicago Public Schools. | 

I! I Ml 11111111 = 


The craftsman who is seeking new articles to make 
and the instructor who is looking for new problems, find 
this work a most refreshing source of directly usable 
material and inspiring suggestion. 

Projects in woodwork; on electric lamps; on ash 
splint work; cane seating, rush seating, hickory sprints; 
upholstering; round and flat weaving; textiles and 
wood; and metal and wood are provided. 

The illustrations and directions of procedure are such 
as to prove the author a master craftsman and teacher, 
himself. 


iiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiimmii 


CLOTH, 242 PAGES. PRICE, $2.50, NET. 


THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MILWAUKEE, WIS. 


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A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING 



By Milton & Wohlers. 

One of the most popular books on this subject 
ever printed. Its authors are teachers of long ex¬ 
perience, and present every phase of this subject. 

Harmonious lines in design are continuously 
suggested, resulting in beautiful and varied pieces 
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The arrangement of the book is such, that indi¬ 
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Cloth, 340 pages, 8mo. 


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CEDAR CHESTS—How to Make Them 

By Ralph F. Windoes. 

The author, who is an experienced teacher, has brought to¬ 
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Contents of the chapters are as follows:—The Wood to be 
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Cloth, 96 pages, 8vo. Price, $1.00, net. 

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FURNITURE WEAVING PROJECTS 

By L. F. Hyatt. 



Almost everyone is charmed by the inviting ap¬ 
pearance of woven or wicker furniture. For the 
person who likes to make things, the book, 

FURNITURE WEAVING PROJECTS, 
provides a fascinating opportunity to make 
with his hands such articles of furniture. 

Mr. Hyatt has carefully graded the proj¬ 
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structions, drawings, and illustrations, so 
that every detail of procedure is understood. 

He starts with simple pieces such as Tab- 
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The projects gradually increase in both beauty, utility and diffi¬ 
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Arm Chairs, Rockers and a Chaise Longue are easily made. 


Cloth, 140 pages 


$1.25 net. 


The Bruce Publishing Company, Milwaukee, Wisconsin 


IIIIU 


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